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Culinary historian Marks noted some other foods dictated by the Talmud to be eaten on Rosh Hashanah on the basis of their Aramaic names: "Kara" is the Aramaic name for pumpkin, he said, "and that sounds like 'yikra,' 'to be called out,' as our good deeds are called out at this time of judgment." In the old country, Bukharian Jews not only dipped apples in honey, but also pieces of boiled beef lung.
Rabbi Yehoshua said that the name for lung, "re-ah" sounds like the Hebrew term for "behold," as in "behold a New Year," part of the Rosh Hashanah liturgy.
But when Samarkand was destroyed in the late 16th century by the Uzbeks, a group of Turkic tribes, Bukhara emerged as the center of Jewish culture, although there were sizable Jewish populations in Tashkent and smaller cities in the region as well.
"This part of Central Asia," Marks said, "was known for its very ancient irrigation canals, and through irrigation, they had an incredible array of fruits and vegetables." Fruits play an important role in all the culinary styles of the region, but Marks said that the use of quince, the somewhat misshapen relative of pears and apples, was a unique hallmark of Jewish cooking.
Traditionally, all celebratory Bukharian meals began with fried fish doused with a garlic-cilantro sauce.
Yehoshua traced this practice back to Ezra the Scribe, the leader of the Jews during the Babylonian exile, who is quoted in the Talmud as advising Jews to eat fish with garlic every Friday night.
Here in New York, however, kosher butchers selling lungs are hard to come by, and so, he said, his congregants make do with the head of a fish.
Since "rosh" means "head" (Rosh Hashanah means, literally, "head of the year"), heads - of fish, of cows, of sheep - figure in many Jewish traditions.
Still, when she does fry fish, she manages to contain most of the spattering oil by using a trick of her grandmother's - covering the deep-frying pan with a sheet of cardboard.
Yuabov will also prepare black-eyed peas sauteed with onions.
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